This piece is plodding along slowly, but will be done in full soon. Here's a sneak-peek, since I know you all have been losing sleep the last few weeks in anticipation...
BEER in PARADISE
Far away to the east, tucked up against the borders of Washington and Idaho, are the Wallowa Mountains. Jagged, alpine, they rise up out of the desert sere. These steep slopes wring what moisture has survived the traverse of the Cascades, and thus are covered in lovely pine forests and starry montane lakes. The highest peaks are crowned in glaciers, from whose feet streams gush out, pouring through flower-jeweled meadows and rocky washes on their way downhill.
One of these, named for the winds that flow up and down the canyon, is Hurricane Creek. This is a stream in a hurry; the water kicks and froths along, taking very few pauses on its way. Far from a lazy coastal river with swimming holes and rope-swings, this is a wild, semi-frozen churn- water that only hours before was ice. It dashes along under the sharp-needled pine trees and out onto the plain, where it is parceled out in charming little canals that irrigate the lush pasturelands and grain fields at the foot of the mountains.
But before the thirsty wheat takes it all, this little stream gives its bounty to the glowing little community of Enterprise, Oregon. This is the water responsible for one of the best beers in the state. You can taste the gush and froth of wild Hurricane Creek in every pint of Terminal Gravity.
...stay tuned for the rest of it, at least two paragraphs more...
Monday, August 20, 2007
Caldera Pilsner and Journeys in Multnomah Village
This weekend my lady and I were a-prowl in the Village, and, scared away by the acrid clouds of yellowtooth smoke at the otherwise charming Ship, we found our way over to Journeys, a newish watering hole right on Capitol Highway. Journeys is located in a converted house, and is filled with what the Germans call "gemutlichkeit," or coziness. It's a lovely place, with nice outdoor seating and great ambience inside, and, happily, is a smoke-free environment in which to enjoy their excellent beer and wine list.
When I walked in, my eyes immediately focused on one thing: a tap handle, gleaming golden in the soft yellow light, labeled CALDERA PILSNER.
The beer was perfect, snappy, crystalline, and light, with a soft curtain of hops on the finish. Impeccably true to style, this is the finest American pils I have ever tasted, edging out the excellent Prima Pils from Victory (and, as a Pennsylvania Dutch boy, that's traitorous talk!). Almost unbelievably crisp and refreshing, this beer demanded a revisitation. Needless to say, I aquiesced to her gentle demands.
It's a good thing I live four blocks away from the place...
When I walked in, my eyes immediately focused on one thing: a tap handle, gleaming golden in the soft yellow light, labeled CALDERA PILSNER.
The beer was perfect, snappy, crystalline, and light, with a soft curtain of hops on the finish. Impeccably true to style, this is the finest American pils I have ever tasted, edging out the excellent Prima Pils from Victory (and, as a Pennsylvania Dutch boy, that's traitorous talk!). Almost unbelievably crisp and refreshing, this beer demanded a revisitation. Needless to say, I aquiesced to her gentle demands.
It's a good thing I live four blocks away from the place...
Monday, August 6, 2007
The BEERS of AUGUST
at John's Marketplace, PDX, OR, USA
as selected by Chris and Riggs
Caldera IPA- in a can! $1.45/ 12 oz. (Oregon)
Caldera is the first microbrew in the state to make the jump to the dark side: opaque aluminum cans. They’re lined, so the beer has no metallic taste, and is completely protected from light. Hoppy, crispy, and delicious.
Weltenburger Kloster Hefeweizen Hell $2.79/ 1 pt. 9 oz. (Germany)
We’ve had this beer for some time, but I just discovered it last week. Wow! Light and refreshing, this filtered Hef backs off the banana flavors, but is still unabashedly German in style and complexity.
Boulder “Cold Hop” $3.99/ 22 oz. (Colorado)
Well-hopped, with a solid malty core, this is Boulder Brewing’s stab at an English-style ale. We find it more NW than UK in flavor profile, but it’s a damn good beer, however you class it.
Morland “Tanner’s Jack” $1.99/ 12 oz. (England)
Now here’s an English-style beer. Copper-colored, smooth, and fairly hoppy for an English brew, this is just one of the delicious brews from Morland. If you don’t know it, you should.
Hale’s Kölsch $3.59/ 12 oz. (Washington)
Chris the Beer Guru says this is absolutely the finest Kölsch -style beer brewed in the States. Light, refreshing, and delicious; and pretty darn authentic, too.
Spaten Premium Lager $1.99/ 12 oz. (Germany)
Spaten is a relatively large brewery, and their beers are widely distributed, so much so that you may have begun overlooking some great stuff. Premium is an ultra-clean lager, all bright, pure flavors and perfect carbonation. The finish is completely dry. This is what American macro-brew “pilseners” wish they could be.
Hop Rod Rye $3.29/ 22 oz. (California)
The biggest, baddest rye ale ever known to God or man! I’m only exaggerating a little bit there (God brews an awesome rye), as this beer belies the notion that all rye beers are light and snappy. It’s dark amber in color, with aggressive, peppery hops. Great with spicy Mexican food!
Brasserie de Blaugies “Saison d’Epeautre” $7.99/ 750 mL (Belgium)
This beer might as well be named Saison d’Epiphany for the effect it had on me. When I discovered that all the class, complexity, and pedigree of a Belgian ale could be delivered without any heaviness or sweetness, I cried tears of joy for three days. Actually, I just bought another bottle… and another… Brewed with spelt, this beer is a true “micro-brew,” as Blaugies is located in a garage in Belgium. Amazing.
Hebrew “Bittersweet Lenny’s R.I.P.A.” $4.99/ 22 oz. (New York)
The other biggest baddest rye ale; Lenny’s is dedicated to none other than Lenny Bruce, and this beer is similarly revolutionary, packed with massive, integrated flavors. Gargantuan hops on the finish make Northwesterners smile.
Coopers Sparkling Ale $1.69/ 12 oz. (Australia)
If Foster’s is Australian for beer, maybe Coopers is Australian for really good beer (I dig Foster’s Bitter, admittedly). Everything they make I love, but the Sparkling just rings a sunny ole bell here in the summer swelter. Slightly cloudy, with superfine carbonation, it’s dry and eminently refreshing, but still has a nice complexity to it.
Yulesmith Holiday Ale $6.65/ 22 oz. (California)
Its name notwithstanding, this is a summer beer (your clue is the cluster of fireworks on the label). The beer inside is wonderful, absolutely gigantic, brimming with nutty malts and topped off with a landslide of bitter, white grapefruit hops. A massive, very well-made beer.
Rogue Half-a-weizen $4.55/ 22 oz. (Oregon)
If given the option to have only one beer with me on a desert island, this is the one I'd choose. Lay the bottle gently on its side prior to opening to “relax” the yeast. Fully clouded, this beer sings like sunlight down through a cloud, floral and light, but with ideal weight under the snappy citric flavors. There are no sweetness or banana flavors to mar the impeccable finish of Rogue's take on a Belgian witbier. This beer is just perfect.
Monday, July 30, 2007
ABANDON SOBRIETY ALL YE WHO ENTER HERE
You have found your lucky way to Portland's new home for all things beer and wine. Whether through methods honorable or nefarious, you're here now, so welcome! I am Riggs Fulmer, aka Mr. Riggs, aka Huge Throbbing Pinot, and I'll be your guide through the often confusing, always wonderful world of modern beer and wine.
There is perhaps no better city than Portland to explore these products. We are not only located within an hour's drive of one of the most exciting New World wine regions, but Portland itself has more breweries- period- than any city in the world. Munchen an der Willamette sind wir- and damn proud of it. Remember what that paragon of moral virtue, Cardinal Richelieu, said about drinking, "If God forbade drinking, would He have made wine so good?" And Ben Franklin adds, "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Ahh, sweet ethynol!
Anyway, check in here now and then to see my rants, rhapsodies, and various opinions on beer and wine. De gustibus non disputandum est, sure, but a little dispute can be a good thing! Read on...
There is perhaps no better city than Portland to explore these products. We are not only located within an hour's drive of one of the most exciting New World wine regions, but Portland itself has more breweries- period- than any city in the world. Munchen an der Willamette sind wir- and damn proud of it. Remember what that paragon of moral virtue, Cardinal Richelieu, said about drinking, "If God forbade drinking, would He have made wine so good?" And Ben Franklin adds, "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Ahh, sweet ethynol!
Anyway, check in here now and then to see my rants, rhapsodies, and various opinions on beer and wine. De gustibus non disputandum est, sure, but a little dispute can be a good thing! Read on...
TERMINAL GRAVITY in JULY 2007
When we visited TG last weekend, we were not only treated to glorious views and impeccable hospitality, but also some of the finest beers in our fair state. Drinking this stuff at the source is an experience not to be missed. Here's what we tried:
ESG (Extra Special Golden)
This is the locals' favorite. One bartender said that they sell more of this at the brewery than their IPA! The color is as named, limpid and golden, with a fine head and delicate carbonation. The beer has a delicious floral, herbaceous aroma that carries through on the palate, where it is almost unbelievably refreshing. The key is freshness: ESG here in Portland tends to heavy up a bit as it ages, with the hops coming more into the forefront. Have a fresh pour and you'll taste maybe the most thirst-quenching beer in the state. The quintessential summer beer, snappy, sunny, and dry. And the awesome news is that they'll be bottling it soon!
IPA
The flagship, and deservedly so. This is one of the best iterations of the style you can taste, and with the added hoppiness, it holds up better way out here in the big city (but see my tasting notes for fresh IPA below…oh, yum!). Still, there's something to be said for looking out at Ruby Peak with a tall frosty in your hand. The beer has a nice malty minerality underneath a wash of lemon zest. On the tongue the hops read as luscious ruby red grapefruit, with a mouthwatering herbal finish. Not nearly as heavy as many IPAs now, but still a hop-bomb in the true Oregonian style. Effin' great brew!
SDS ("San Diego style" IPA)
The name here is a barb at the enfants terribles down at Arrogant Bastard, who have humbly re-named what we've been calling Northwestern-style IPAs for years now. All that sun and salty wind must have made them forget… but we love ‘em anyway! I digress; basically, SDS is a double IPA, an explosion of hops- and it more than stands up with its sunny southern brethren. The color is a dark amber, with assertive bubbles and a compelling nose of cracked white pepper and grapefruit. It's floral and broad on the tongue, with a long, persistent finish. What's remarkable, and this is a theme throughout the TG catalog, is how light on its feet this beer is; a totally refreshing hoppy kick to the head, its warm, malty finish notwithstanding. Take that, Gargoyle Boys! As John From Cincinnati would say, we got our eyes on you!
Triple
This is TG's take on a Belgian Trippel, but, in typically iconoclastic fashion, brewed with ale yeast. In reality, it should probably be called an American Strong Ale, but that's just too long! The nose is rich and warming, and it's so on the palate as well, with expressive floral notes wound around a malty core. The finish is rather dry, surprisingly so, almost reminiscent of a big Saison, with lingering flavors of hoppy green peppercorns. And, wow, how can a beer this big be so refreshing?! Be careful with this one; at 8.5% ABV, it's a heavyweight.
Porter
The first thing you notice about this beer is that you can see right through it; it's a shade lighter than cola, which the TGers say is the traditional coloration of porters. But on the tongue it's all you'd expect, wonderful fleshy flavors of chocolate, toffee, and cocoa powder, with a hint of licorice. The finish is awash in roasted filberts, with a smooth hoppiness and a silky mouthfeel.
Barleywine
You'd expect a top-notch barleywine from these guys, and you'd not be disappointed. And, at around $12 a growler, it's the least expensive one I've had in some time. The nose is vast and complex, a riot of roasted cherries, rose petals, fresh wort, and caramel. On the tongue it positively preens; this is a beer to be savored with a good cigar or a long sunset. The toffee and amaretto flavors swirl around a balancing note of lemony acidity, much like a good Vin Santo. The finish is a touch sweet, but not heavy or cloying. If only they bottled it, so we could cellar some! Legend is, they broke out a five-year-old barrel a year ago, and happy mayhem ensued…
Fresh IPA
On the tour, head brewer Dean grinned a wicked grin and pulled a twisty metal contraption out of a corner. Heading right for the bottling tank, he plugged it in, turned a switch, and out poured one of the most delicious beverages I have ever had (and I've had a few). This was brand-spanking-new IPA bound for bottling, an ice-cold 35 degrees or so, bright, clear, almost glowing in the glasses we'd happily lugged around on our tour. It was completely different than the "normal" thing, with explosively peppery, white grapefruit hops that just danced on the tongue. The great treatment had to sway me a bit, but this might just have been the most refreshing drink I've ever had, second only to that cave-born spring in the mountains of eastern Kentucky… But you probably won't ever get to try this, so I should shut up and not be a tease.
Now that you're thirsty, come to John's Marketplace in Portland, Oregon and grab a sixer of IPA and see if I'm lying! We'll see you here…
yrs,Mr. Riggs, the Beer-lovin' Cork-Dork
When we visited TG last weekend, we were not only treated to glorious views and impeccable hospitality, but also some of the finest beers in our fair state. Drinking this stuff at the source is an experience not to be missed. Here's what we tried:
ESG (Extra Special Golden)
This is the locals' favorite. One bartender said that they sell more of this at the brewery than their IPA! The color is as named, limpid and golden, with a fine head and delicate carbonation. The beer has a delicious floral, herbaceous aroma that carries through on the palate, where it is almost unbelievably refreshing. The key is freshness: ESG here in Portland tends to heavy up a bit as it ages, with the hops coming more into the forefront. Have a fresh pour and you'll taste maybe the most thirst-quenching beer in the state. The quintessential summer beer, snappy, sunny, and dry. And the awesome news is that they'll be bottling it soon!
IPA
The flagship, and deservedly so. This is one of the best iterations of the style you can taste, and with the added hoppiness, it holds up better way out here in the big city (but see my tasting notes for fresh IPA below…oh, yum!). Still, there's something to be said for looking out at Ruby Peak with a tall frosty in your hand. The beer has a nice malty minerality underneath a wash of lemon zest. On the tongue the hops read as luscious ruby red grapefruit, with a mouthwatering herbal finish. Not nearly as heavy as many IPAs now, but still a hop-bomb in the true Oregonian style. Effin' great brew!
SDS ("San Diego style" IPA)
The name here is a barb at the enfants terribles down at Arrogant Bastard, who have humbly re-named what we've been calling Northwestern-style IPAs for years now. All that sun and salty wind must have made them forget… but we love ‘em anyway! I digress; basically, SDS is a double IPA, an explosion of hops- and it more than stands up with its sunny southern brethren. The color is a dark amber, with assertive bubbles and a compelling nose of cracked white pepper and grapefruit. It's floral and broad on the tongue, with a long, persistent finish. What's remarkable, and this is a theme throughout the TG catalog, is how light on its feet this beer is; a totally refreshing hoppy kick to the head, its warm, malty finish notwithstanding. Take that, Gargoyle Boys! As John From Cincinnati would say, we got our eyes on you!
Triple
This is TG's take on a Belgian Trippel, but, in typically iconoclastic fashion, brewed with ale yeast. In reality, it should probably be called an American Strong Ale, but that's just too long! The nose is rich and warming, and it's so on the palate as well, with expressive floral notes wound around a malty core. The finish is rather dry, surprisingly so, almost reminiscent of a big Saison, with lingering flavors of hoppy green peppercorns. And, wow, how can a beer this big be so refreshing?! Be careful with this one; at 8.5% ABV, it's a heavyweight.
Porter
The first thing you notice about this beer is that you can see right through it; it's a shade lighter than cola, which the TGers say is the traditional coloration of porters. But on the tongue it's all you'd expect, wonderful fleshy flavors of chocolate, toffee, and cocoa powder, with a hint of licorice. The finish is awash in roasted filberts, with a smooth hoppiness and a silky mouthfeel.
Barleywine
You'd expect a top-notch barleywine from these guys, and you'd not be disappointed. And, at around $12 a growler, it's the least expensive one I've had in some time. The nose is vast and complex, a riot of roasted cherries, rose petals, fresh wort, and caramel. On the tongue it positively preens; this is a beer to be savored with a good cigar or a long sunset. The toffee and amaretto flavors swirl around a balancing note of lemony acidity, much like a good Vin Santo. The finish is a touch sweet, but not heavy or cloying. If only they bottled it, so we could cellar some! Legend is, they broke out a five-year-old barrel a year ago, and happy mayhem ensued…
Fresh IPA
On the tour, head brewer Dean grinned a wicked grin and pulled a twisty metal contraption out of a corner. Heading right for the bottling tank, he plugged it in, turned a switch, and out poured one of the most delicious beverages I have ever had (and I've had a few). This was brand-spanking-new IPA bound for bottling, an ice-cold 35 degrees or so, bright, clear, almost glowing in the glasses we'd happily lugged around on our tour. It was completely different than the "normal" thing, with explosively peppery, white grapefruit hops that just danced on the tongue. The great treatment had to sway me a bit, but this might just have been the most refreshing drink I've ever had, second only to that cave-born spring in the mountains of eastern Kentucky… But you probably won't ever get to try this, so I should shut up and not be a tease.
Now that you're thirsty, come to John's Marketplace in Portland, Oregon and grab a sixer of IPA and see if I'm lying! We'll see you here…
yrs,Mr. Riggs, the Beer-lovin' Cork-Dork
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